![]() Left: George Mallory and Andrew Irvine © RGS/The Sandy Irvine Trust, from "Ghosts of Everest" ; Right: 1924 North Face locations © Pete Poston |
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Welcome to The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine's Fate | ||||||
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"I'm quite doubtful if I shall be fit enough. But again I wonder if the monsoon will give us a chance. I don't want to get caught, but our three-day scheme from the Chang La will give the monsoon a good chance. We shall be going up again the day after tomorrow. Six days to the top from this camp!" --from George Mallory's last letter to his wife prior to disappearing on Mt. Everest with his partner Andrew "Sandy" Irvine in 1924 "My face is in perfect agony. Have prepared two oxygen apparatus for our start tomorrow morning". - Sandy Irvine's last diary entry |
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News If you're a devoted Mallory and Irvine fan, please visit my Mallory and Irvine forum.
Spring 2013
No news about any searches for Irvine this year, although there are always things brewing under the radar. Jochen Hemmleb's documentary of his 2010 search for Irvine is now available with English translation. The first fatality of the year - Everest icefall doctor Mingmar Sherpa was killed when he fell into a crevasse in the Western Cwn. It was bound to happen. Using Google Earth, you can now trek to Mount Everest as viewed from street level. Google has also announced in the past that they plan to use climbers to photograph the way all the way to the summit. Mark Horrell is an British climber who climbed the Northeast Ridge of Mount Everest in 2012. He has a great blog where he explains why he believes Mallory and Irvine summited in 1924. Horrell is also the author of numerous Kindle books about the history of the Himalaya which you can download from Amazon.com. Highly recommended reading. Fall 2011 The politics of Mallory and Irvine continues - the British climbing establishment is quiet about Hemmleb's search but Holzel's is roundly condemned. Spring 2011 Hemmleb has been spotted in Kathmandu, and will be searching again even though he says they won't be. He said the same thing last year, and we know how that turned out. According to KSL.com, Graham Hoyland is searching this year as well. UPDATE: Hemmleb is at Advanced Base Camp (ABC) on the North side with lots of heavy video cameras. UPDATE: Hemmleb failed to find Irvine this year.
The results of Hemmleb's 2010 search expedition were unsuccessful, and here is a map of where he looked (look for the Big and Little Cracks on the ridgecrest). Hemmleb also has posted his latest theories on his webpage, as well as some complaining about criticism. Fall 2010 Who owns the camera? Who has the copyright to any images? Read these great articles on Tom Holzel's website. Attention searchers! - Tom Holzel tells you how to handle the film Did bad weather seal M&I's Fate? A recent article based on the actual weather conditions on June 8th, 1924, and Graham Hoyland's involvement with it. Jake Norton - outstanding M&I theorist and historian. Read his blog here, and his three part theory of how M&I could have made the summit! >> Spring 2004
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Part 1: the ascent
Wim Kohsiek has a new interpretation of what Mallory's altimeter can tell us based on scientific applications of meterology. Mallory and Irvine researcher Wim Kohsiek has two new thought-provoking articles about Mallory's watch and Irvine's location: Mallory's Watch - Does it Really Point to 12:50 PM? 1924 Oxygen by Richard McQuet and Pete Poston Why the Camera and Film are not Doomed to Destruction! The Politics of Mallory and Irvine Why Andrew Irvine Will Not be Found in a Sleeping Bag! Part 1 and Part 2 on ExplorersWeb Chomolungma Nirvana: The Routes of Mount Everest Rust Marks on Mallory's Altimeter Mystery of Mallory and Irvine's Fate Google Earth Tour - my own ideas in 3-D with audio! Little Known Free-Solo Ascent of the Second Step in 2001 by Theo Fritsche - I should never have written this - Anker and Houlding deserve credit for the first free ascent Criticisms of the 2004 EverestNews.com search for Irvine -- The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine's Fate (with J. Hemmleb): Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5. Mallory and Irvine - Comments on the 'real Second Step' route: Part 1 and Part 2 Conrad Anker's comments on the unlikeliness of a direct route up the prow of the 2nd Step Articles about my heroes Walter Bonatti and Chris Bonington -- Spilling the Beans - Lino Lacedelli's Book "Price of Conquest: Confessions from the First Ascent of K2" Part 1 and Part 2 The Life and Climbs of Chris Bonington, Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5 final - interview |
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About Me
In my free time, I love to photograph and hike the spectacular redrock wilderness of the Colorado Plateau - please visit my Colorado Plateau Homepage. And for most of my life I've been fascinated with the history, people, and culture of the Himalayas and Karakoram - browse my Mount Everest Trek (1996), Overland Journey from Kathmandu to Lhasa (2000), and K2 Base Camp Trek (2007) webpages. As for my employment, I work for Western Oregon University where I have been a Professor of Chemistry for the last 20 years. My research interests are in applications of Laser Raman Spectroscopy to such diverse fields as Nanotechnology, Analytical Chemistry, and even a bit of Achaeology through the study of rock art pigments found in the Colorado Plateau. You can access my academic webpage here.
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