Left: George Mallory and Andrew Irvine © RGS/The Sandy Irvine Trust, from "Ghosts of Everest" ; Right: 1924 North Face locations © Pete Poston
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"I'm quite doubtful if I shall be fit enough. But again I wonder if the monsoon will give us a chance. I don't want to get caught, but our three-day scheme from the Chang La will give the monsoon a good chance. We shall be going up again the day after tomorrow. Six days to the top from this camp!"

--from George Mallory's last letter to his wife prior to disappearing on Mt. Everest with his partner Andrew "Sandy" Irvine in 1924

"My face is in perfect agony. Have prepared two oxygen apparatus for our start tomorrow morning".

- Sandy Irvine's last diary entry


News Spring 2010

| Spring 2004 | Spring 2006 | Fall 2006 | Spring 2007 | Summer 2008 | Spring 2009 |
| Summer 2009 | Fall 2009| Winter 2010 | Spring 2010 | Fall 2010 |

Duncan Chessell announces his own search for 2011

Jochen Hemmleb has gone back to Everest to search for Irvine again - this time with a group of Austrians - including Theo Fritsche who claims to have free-soloed the 2nd Step. The members of the expedition are:

1.Jochen Hans Hemmleb – Expedition leader (Germany)
2.Josef Bachmair (Austria)
3.Theodor Fritsche (Austria )
4.Guenther Goeberl (Austria)
5.Volker Franz Holzner (Germany)
6. Alexander Naglich (Austria)
7. Gerald Salmina (Austria)

The logistics of the search are being handled by Jamie McGuiness of Project Himalaya - everyone knows this now since the expedition was leaked by Explore Himalaya on their Facebook page. Funny how that page was quickly removed! In addition, McGuiness mentions on his webpage that he is providing support for "another expedition"

The other climbing teams on the North side have undoubtedly been asked to remain quiet. I know this because I contacted one of teams, and I was told that they "hadn't seen them or had contact with them". This is obviously false because where else could the search team acclimitize, etc.

Hemmleb and others believe that Irvine is there for the picking.

Here's a new map of the North Face that shows the updated locations of Holzel's Irvine locations, and Xu Jing's descent route along the ridgeline where he stumbled upon the remains of an old climber. I have also included Chhiring Dorje Sherpa's known ascent route. So if the two old bodies seen by these two climbers is the same, then it can only be where the two routes intersect AND be on the ridge (or reasonably close). I have labelled this spot on the map with a large question mark.

Here's an interesting article about Thom Pollard, who along with Jake Norton was going to search for Irvine this Spring as part of Tom Holzel's cancelled search expedition (scroll down for links to Tom's search plans and theories).

Earlier I speculated that Chhiring Dorje and Eric Meyers - who tried to mount a search expedition last year but the funding fell through - might be on the mountain anyway since both SummitClimb and Rowaling Excursions are going to be there. I've been told that Chhiring Dorje will try a double-header this year - first on Makalu, and then Everest.


Articles and Editorials

Harvey V. Lankford, MD, has written a paper documenting the origin of the term "Glacier Lassitude" as a diagnosis for the debilitating effect of altitude as experienced by members of the early British Everest expeditions.

My new theory about Mallory and Irvine's last climb, where I believe Odell's sighting was erroneous, and have them taking the Couloir route instead.

Part 1: the ascent
Part 2: the descent

Warwick Pryce is a new researcher who has arrived on the scene, and he has a new theory about how Andrew Irvine could have been the first person to stand on the top of the world.

Wim Kohsiek has a new interpretation of what Mallory's altimeter can tell us based on scientific applications of meterology.

Mallory and Irvine researcher Wim Kohsiek has two new thought-provoking articles about Mallory's watch and Irvine's location:

Mallory's Watch - Does it Really Point to 12:50 PM?

1924 Oxygen by Richard McQuet and Pete Poston

Why the Camera and Film are not Doomed to Destruction!

The Politics of Mallory and Irvine

Why Andrew Irvine Will Not be Found in a Sleeping Bag! Part 1 and Part 2 on ExplorersWeb

Chomolungma Nirvana: The Routes of Mount Everest

Rust Marks on Mallory's Altimeter

Mystery of Mallory and Irvine's Fate Google Earth Tour - my own ideas in 3-D with audio!

Little Known Free-Solo Ascent of the Second Step in 2001 by Theo Fritsche - I should never have written this - Anker and Houlding deserve credit for the first free ascent

Criticisms of the 2004 EverestNews.com search for Irvine --

The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine's Fate (with J. Hemmleb): Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5.

Mallory and Irvine - Comments on the 'real Second Step' route: Part 1 and Part 2

Conrad Anker's comments on the unlikeliness of a direct route up the prow of the 2nd Step

Articles about my heroes Walter Bonatti and Chris Bonington --

Spilling the Beans - Lino Lacedelli's Book "Price of Conquest: Confessions from the First Ascent of K2" Part 1 and Part 2

The Life and Climbs of Chris Bonington, Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5 final - interview

About Me

Celebrating my 50th birthday on pitch 3 of Prodigal Son, Zion National Park, Utah

In my free time, I love to photograph and hike the spectacular redrock wilderness of the Colorado Plateau - please visit my Colorado Plateau Homepage.

And for most of my life I've been fascinated with the history, people, and culture of the Himalayas and Karakoram - browse my Mount Everest Trek (1996), Overland Journey from Kathmandu to Lhasa (2000), and K2 Base Camp Trek (2007) webpages.

As for my employment, I work for Western Oregon University where I have been a Professor of Chemistry for the last 20 years. My research interests are in applications of Laser Raman Spectroscopy to such diverse fields as Nanotechnology, Analytical Chemistry, and even a bit of Achaeology through the study of rock art pigments found in the Colorado Plateau. You can access my academic webpage here.